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A Step-by-Step Guide to Growing Cannabis from a Clone

Nurturing Clones in Coco Coir

Once clones are fully rooted you can place them in small pots and begin the transition from clone to the young plant. When handled correctly, clones grow into robust young plants that ultimately become productive. However, inadequate care during this period can lead to stunted growth and unfulfilled potential. Caring for clones in coco coir may present its challenges but worry not; we’ve got you covered. In this guide, we will walk you through every aspect of growing cannabis clones in coco coir. We’ll provide insights into preparing coco for clones, selecting the correct containers for clones in coco, maintaining appropriate relative humidity and temperature for cannabis clones, ensuring proper lighting, choosing the right fertilizers, addressing the watering/feeding needs of clones in coco coir, and managing calcium deficiency in clones. For information on how to clone cannabis see out article titled, “Cloning Cannabis Plants 101“.

Showing what a rooted clone should look like
Cannabis clone rooted in a peat pellet.

Buying Clones for Growing Cannabis

If you got the cloned plants from an outside source, be sure to quarantine them before planting them. Place them in a separate room from the rest of your plants for 3-5 days. During this time, examine the plants for fungus or pests that could spread to your other plants.

  • Twisted, blistered, and wet-looking leaves are an indication of broad mites or russet mites.
  • Small specks or bite marks on leaves are a sign of spider mites.
  • Yellow spots on the leaves indicate a fungus called leaf septoria.
  • White spots, fuzzy patches, or powdery-looking leaves are signs of white powdery mildew.

This guide focuses on the approximately 7 to 10 day duration of the clone transition phase, which begins when the fully rooted clones is placed in its first growing container. The transition phase continues until the plant has developed its first new nodes (groups of serrated leaves). As your plants continue to grow during the transition stage, it becomes crucial to contemplate a transplanting approach. We highly recommend refraining from starting clones directly in their final containers. In the end, you’ll want to relocate your plants to their ultimate containers. For valuable advice on pot size and initial container selection please refer to our article titled, The Importance of Transplanting Cannabis Plants”.

How to Grow Cannabis Clones in Coco Coir

  1. Buffer the coco to avoid CalMag issues.
  2. Start clones in small pots
  3. Create the right humidity and temperature for new clones
  4. Provide the right light for clones
  5. Start fertigation (adding fertilizers to the water) 24 hours after transplanting clones
  6. Dilute the solution to your daily EC targets. Slowly raise EC from 400 to 1000
  7. Feed daily or twice per day
  8. Learn how to treat calcium and magnesium deficiencies in clones in coco

Coco Coir, CalMag and Clones

Before you use coco coir to grow cannabis, it’s crucial to rinse, buffer, and mix it with perlite properly. For detailed instructions on this preparation process, please refer to our guide titled “How to Prepare and Buffer Coco Coir” The buffering step is especially essential when preparing coco coir for plants, particularly clones and seedlings.

As explained in our article “The Importance of using CalMag in Coco” , coco substrate has a fairly high ability to hold onto nutrients. This is due to it having plenty of cation exchange sites, which are essentially docking stations for cations, or positively charged ions, like calcium (Ca+2), magnesium (Mg+2), and potassium (K+). In addition, coco naturally comes with a high concentration of potassium, since it is part of the material itself. These nutrients will rest in these exchange sites and then are used by the plant when needed.

It’s important to balance out the ratio of calcium, magnesium, and potassium found on the coco so that the plant receives the correct balance for successful growth and to prevent deficiencies. In order to ensure that the substrate has come equipped with the proper ratio between these competitive cations, a good coco substrate will arrive already buffered with a nutrient solution or with directions on how to buffer it yourself. After this point, the nutrient buffer on the coco needs to be maintained by always applying a nutrient solution, designed specifically to balance the calcium and magnesium needs of coco. It is also important to water with sufficient drainage, every time you apply the nutrient solution. And, lastly but importantly, avoid applying plain water or a poor nutrient solution.

Maintaining Proper Buffering

When plain water is poured over the coco, the coco nutrient buffer becomes damaged as some of the calcium and magnesium on the substrate is displaced from the coco medium and is replaced with potassium. This movement happens due to the nutrient elements on the coco substrate striving for a concentration balance with the nutrient elements in the water. As a result, the plant does not receive the correct balance of nutrients that it needs and the substrate is also left imbalanced. During subsequent feedings with a proper nutrient solution, the coco substrate will attract some of the nutrients in order to restore its nutrient balance and, as a result, continue to leave a nutrient shortage for the plant. To fix the issue, a balanced, complete nutrient solution would need to be thoroughly flushed through the coco and some time would be needed for the coco buffer to repair.

Buffering the coco coir allows you to address most of these cation exchange sites. However, as your plants grow, additional cation exchange sites become exposed, requiring extra CalMag supplementation. Coco coir has a tendency to absorb calcium and magnesium before the plant can access them. If you don’t provide enough, your plant will suffer from calcium and magnesium deficiencies.

Dealing with Nutritional Deficiencies

Calcium and magnesium deficiencies are frequent issues when growing cannabis in coco coir. Dealing with CalMag problems can be especially challenging during the clone transition stage because coco coir absorbs calcium and magnesium from the nutrient solution. However, increasing the CalMag dose isn’t a straightforward solution. Clones are sensitive to high Electrical Conductivity (EC) levels, and CalMag significantly affects EC. Therefore, if you encounter calcium or magnesium deficiency problems during the clone transition stage, we provide some suggestions below. Nevertheless, wheb growing cannabis it’s best to prevent these issues from arising in the first place by correctly preparing your coco coir.

Clones Growing Under an LED lighy
New Clones in Transition to Young Veg Plants

How to Ready Coco Coir for Clones

Buffering with a strong dose of CalMag prior to using the coco to grow cannabis allows you to provide relatively little CalMag during the clone transition stage of the grow. However, buffering solutions themselves have a high EC, and clones could be burned if they are placed in coco fresh from the buffering process. Therefore, it is important to reduce the residual EC in the coco before transplanting the clones.

Buffering before utilizing the coco coir allows for reduced CalMag requirements during the clone transition phase. However, it’s crucial to acknowledge that buffering solutions themselves have a notably high Electrical Conductivity (EC), which could potentially harm clones if they are placed directly into coco coir right after the buffering process. Hence, it’s imperative to decrease the remaining EC in the coco coir before transplanting the clones.

In my cultivation approach to growing cannabis, I begin by preparing and buffering a sufficient amount of coco coir for the final containers. I maintain the majority of the coco coir and perlite mixture in fabric pots, keeping it moist with CalMag Water until it’s needed. When the time comes to introduce clones into the coco coir, I fill the clone transition containers with the coco coir and perlite blend. Subsequently, I perform a thorough flush by pouring pure water with a pH of 6.5 through the container until the runoff registers an EC of less than 100 (0.1). This flushing step holds great importance because it helps prevent any potential issues stemming from the lingering high EC resulting from the buffering process, which could otherwise harm your delicate clones.

Containers for Growing Cannabis Clones in Coco

Once the clones are fully rooted, it’s time to transplant them into its initial container, where it will spend its transition phase. We strongly discourage placing small plants directly into larger final containers. As I explain in our article “The Importance of Transplanting Cannabis Plants,” there are substantial advantages to starting plants in smaller containers and working you way up to the final container.

A transplanted clone
A Cloned Plant in Transition

The Best Pots for Transplanting Cannabis

Seedling Pots

Ventilated Solo Cups

Ventilated Solo Cups are the good choice for a starting pot when growing cannabis. When properly ventilated they create an ideal environment for early root development and offer convenience during transplanting. When it’s time to transplant, simply cut open the cup and slide the root ball and media into the fabric pot.

Comfy Package [18 oz. – 100 Count Disposable Plastic Red Cups, Party Drinking Cups for Events and Everyday Use

Second Containers

1-Gallon Transplanter Pots

The transplanter pots feature a convenient Velcro seam along the edge, enabling effortless removal of the growing cannabis plant during transplanting. This set includes five 1-Gallon transplanter pots, and they are also offered in a 2-Gallon size.

VIVOSUN 5-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags, Fabric Pots with Self-Adhesion Sides for Transplanting

Final Containers

When selecting the final containers for growing cannabis plants, it’s important to take into account the type of growing media you’re using. In coco grows, proper drainage is a key consideration. Smaller containers offer better drainage but require more frequent watering. For most coco grows, we recommend using 3 or 5-gallon final containers as they provide an optimal balance.

In soil grows, the availability of root space is more limited, necessitating larger pots for larger plants. For soil, we suggest using 5-10-gallon final containers to accommodate the plant’s size and root development.

Regardless of the chosen media, we highly recommend using either Air-pots or fabric pots when growing cannabis. These containers excel at promoting good drainage and creating an ideal environment for root growth, whether you’re using coco or soil.

#3 Air-pot

We are still testing growing cannabis with these pots using coco with an automatic watering system. Early testing has shown great potential, and we will provide our findings in a future article.

Air-Pot Container, Number 3 (2.2 Gal/8.4 Liter, Yellow Base)

#5 Air-Pot

Air-pots are a bit more expensive than fabric pots, but we are hoping they are worth it. If you want to grow giant plants, these #5 air-pots may be what you want.

Air-Pot Superoots THAP5 3.6 Gallon/13.8 Liter Propagation Garden Pot Planter Container, Black with Green Base, 6 Pack

3-Gallon Fabric Pot

Three-gallon fabric pots are a great option to use with coco. However, due to the breathable nature of these pots you will need to feed your plants often to keep the media from drying out.

VIVOSUN 5-Pack 3 Gallons Grow Bags Heavy Duty Thickened Nonwoven Fabric Pots with Strap Handles Tan

5-Gallon Fabric Pot

If you don’t want to feed that often or you want to grow very large plants in coco, you can use these 5-gallon pots.

VIVOSUN 5-Pack 5 Gallon Grow Bags Heavy Duty 300G Thickened Nonwoven Plant Fabric Pots with Handles

7-Gallon Fabric Pot

These are the most versatile and least expensive final containers for soil grows. They are also suitable for coco growers who are hand-watering and limited to once daily fertigation.

VIVOSUN 5-Pack 7 Gallon Plant Grow Bags, Heavy Duty Thickened Nonwoven Fabric Pots with Handles

Climate for Growing Cannabis Clones

The humidity and temperature are very important during the early stages of growth with clones. Without the right climate characteristics, the young plants will not live up to their full potential. During the transition stage the relative humidity should remain high, 65 – 80% and the temperature should be moderate, 72-79f (22-26c).

Temperature for Growing Cannabis Clones: 72-79f (22-26c)

The temperature that plants grow in has a large influence on the photosynthetic efficiency and respiration. Clones are more sensitive than older plants and it is worth the effort to maintain their temperature in a narrower range. If plants are too cold or too hot, growth will be reduced as biological processes, especially photosynthesis, are directly influenced by temperature.

You may need to either heat or cool your clones in order to achieve the correct temperature. If a little heat is needed, then you can use a heat mat below your humidity dome. Cooling is more difficult, so be aware that most of the heat comes from the lights and be sure that the lights get good ventilation even if you are trapping the humidity around the plants.

Relative Humidity for Growing Cannabis Clones: 65-80%

Humidity and temperature play a crucial role during the transition stage. Without the appropriate environmental conditions, young plants may not thrive as they should. During the transition stage, it’s vital to maintain a relatively high relative humidity ranging from 65% to 80%, alongside a moderate temperature of 72-79°F (22-26°C). (See, “The Optimal Environment for Growing Cannabis

Achieving the right relative humidity (RH) can be accomplished through various methods. Given the small size of the plants during the transition stage, using a small humidity dome is an effective approach. This allows for precise RH control when you utilize a hygrometer for monitoring. Often, it’s necessary to increase RH levels during the transition phase. However, if you feed your cannabis plants multiple times a day as we recommend (as outlined in “Cannabis Feeding Fundamentals“), the plants will naturally generate sufficient humidity once they transition into their final containers.

Young Cannabis Plants Ready to Start the Veg Cycle
Young Cannabis Plants Ready to Start the Veg Cycle

Light for Growing Cannabis Clones

During the clone transition stage, it’s advisable to maintain a low light intensity. To achieve this, it’s recommended to reserve high-powered grow lights for later stages and opt for low-wattage fluorescent or LED lights for your growing cannabis clones. If you have a lux meter or quantum meter, aim to maintain your clones within the range of 8000 to 20,000 lux or 100 to 300 umols PPFD. This suggests that a 15-25 watt fluorescent or LED propagation light is ideal for nurturing clones. After 7 to 10 days, when new nodes appear the young plants can be moved into the Veg stage and begin receiving full lighting conditions.

Cannabis plants growing under LED Grow lights
Young Cannabis Plants in the Clone Transition Stage

For the clone transition stage, I use a low watt LED, which are equivalent to 100-watt traditional bulbs. The distance between your lights and the clones should be determined based on the light intensity, and some trial and error may be necessary to find the optimal height. When I initially switch on the lights, I position them approximately 6 inches away from the plants and then adjust them to around 4 inches once the first set of new leaves has developed. To maintain an appropriate environment, I position a thermometer/hygrometer probe adjacent to the clones to ensure that both temperature and humidity remain within the desired range, preventing excessive heat and low humidity.

Too Much or Too Little Light for Growing Cannabis Clones

Insufficient light exposure can lead clones to elongation or stretching to reach to light, causing rapid vertical growth. While this might appear to be a positive development, it results in a plant that has big gaps between nodes and a less than optimal plant structure. Conversely, excessive light exposure can harm photosynthetic systems and other cellular components, impeding the plant’s capacity to maintain optimal photosynthesis and growth.

A Cannabis Plant with Tight Node Spacing
A Cannabis Plant with Tight Node Spacing

In ordinary grower terms, nodes are the intersection or joint between branches and the main stem or between a branch and new secondary shoots. While an internode is simply the gap between nodes. So far so simple. However, thoroughly understanding the nodes and internodes and knowing what to look for can be enormously advantageous to the cannabis grower.

What Can Nodes and Internodes Tell the Grower?

Indica Vs Sativa

Indica cannabis plants are characterised by their short stature and densely branching structure. This is because they develop more nodes with tight internode spacing. In contrast, sativa cannabis plants are far taller and less branchy. Stretching is common to sativa varieties. Typically, plants develop fewer nodes with large internodal spaces between sets of branches. Of course, hybrids will exhibit a mix of both indica and sativa traits. Some will lean towards the indica side, others to the sativa side.

The Impact of Temperature and Light on Node Spacing

Stretchy growth and large internodal spacing are not always due to genetics. Wide temperature fluctuations and lights either too weak or too far away from plants can cause plant stretching. Cold nights and hot days will produce a stretchy growth. To keep internode spacing to a minimum and avoid branches snapping later it’s critical to maintain consistent environmental control of the grow-op.

When to Initiate the Lighting for Clones

In my grow, I maintain my low watt LED lights on a 24/0 lighting schedule until new growth appears. After this stage, I transition to an 18/6 lighting schedule. The 18/6 schedule means the lights are on for 18 hours and off for 6 hours. I prefer to schedule the light-off period during the daytime rather than at night, as it facilitates the maintenance of a consistent climate. For additional insights into light cycles and the rationale behind our recommendation for 18/6 lighting during the clone transition and vegetative stages, please refer to our article, “Cannabis Light Cycle Fundamentals.”

Fertilizers for Growing Cannabis Clones

Plants grow their leaves to capture energy through photosynthesis. It’s essential to understand that plants do not derive their energy from fertilizers; instead, they harness energy from light and convert it through photosynthesis. The fertilizers we provide serve the purpose of enabling efficient photosynthesis, but they are not a form of “food” that plants “consume” for energy.

In the initial days of the clone transition stage, it is recommended that you use a low Electrical Conductivity (EC) federated solution. However, once the new growth appears, the plant will be able to use a stronger solution. More on this below.

Growing cannabis plants can only engage in photosynthesis when they have access to both micro and macro nutrients. In the case of coco coir, which is an inert medium, the plant receives nutrients solely through the irrigation solution we provide. This concept is extensively discussed in my articles “Cannabis Feeding Fundamentals” and “Understanding Electrical Conductivity (EC) and Osmosis” Fertigation, as a practice, always demands a delicate balance. On one hand, supplementing nutrients to the water supports plant growth, while on the other hand, an excessive amount can hinder the plant’s ability to absorb water. It’s particularly critical during the clone transition stage to ensure that the nutrient solution’s strength, as measured by Electrical Conductivity (EC), is precisely calibrated. In our grow we use a Bluelabs Truncheon Pole to monitor the EC of our reservoir.

Use a BlueLabs Truncheon Pole to monitor the EC of our reservoir.

Preparing Nutrient Solutions for Growing Cannabis Clones

To achieve the right blend of solutions with the correct Nutrient Element Ratio (NER), appropriate electrical conductivity (EC) strength, and optimal pH, it’s crucial to adhere to several essential steps. Before you proceed further, I recommend watching my video and reviewing our guide titled “How to Mix Nutrient Solutions” This resource provides valuable insights into the precise order of mixing and preparation.

Electrical Conductivity (EC) for Transitioning Clones

Transitioning Clones should be introduced to a nutrient solution with a low EC measurement. In the initial couple of feedings, it’s recommended to maintain an EC of only 500. You can begin to incrementally increase the inflow EC by 75-100 points with each successive feeding, starting from the third one. This gradual elevation in EC allows the plants to develop tolerance and ultimately thrive under higher EC conditions, which is advisable for the remainder of the growth cycle. For more detailed guidance on establishing EC targets, please refer to our tutorial titled “Setting EC Targets.”

Nutrient Formula for Growing Cannabis Clones

The 420 Grow Help Nutrient Schedule is designed around the General Hydroponics Flora Series Line. If you happen to be using a different product line, it’s essential to adhere to the ratios recommended by your supplier for the base nutrients. The 420 Grow Help Blend Recipe generates a nutrient solution with an EC of approximately 1000, which is too concentrated for the initial feeding. To achieve the desired EC level for each feeding, it’s necessary to dilute the solution with water.

During the clone transition stage, plants require only minimal quantities for each feeding and only around the main stem. You do not want to soak the entire pot as this will limit the amount of oxygen that can get to the root zone. Depending on the number of plants in your cultivation, one or two gallons of full-strength solution typically prove adequate for an entire week. My approach involves preparing one gallon of undiluted clones blend solution before the initial feeding. I ensure that the EC measures around 1000 and carefully adjust the pH for the entire gallon. Subsequently, I use water to dilute the solution to attain the target EC for each individual feeding.

Proper pH Levels for Transitioning Growing Cannabis Clones in Coco Coir

Throughout the clone transition stage in coco coir, I maintain the pH of my incoming water within the range of 6.2 to 6.4. This range is selected to enhance calcium solubility during this critical phase. However, as I will be diluting the solution for each fertigation event, the pH of the solution may slightly increase. To account for this, I initially set the pH of the full gallon to be either 6.0 or 6.1.

Achieving Your Target EC through Dilution

Once I’ve successfully mixed the gallon, I take a small portion of it and gradually dilute it with filtered or bottled water until I reach the desired EC level for that particular feeding. Before applying the solution to the coco, I ensure that the pH falls within the range of 6.2 to 6.4. Adjusting the pH accurately in a small sample of solution can be quite challenging. Therefore, if the pH deviates from the target range, it’s advisable to pour that water back and begin the process anew. In such cases, I return to the gallon and modify the pH, taking into account how the sample was influenced by dilution during the initial attempt.

Watering Transitioning Growing Cannabis Clones in Coco Coir

It’s crucial to prevent coco coir from becoming excessively dry. Consequently, clones should be fed once or twice daily once they are situated in their transition pots containing coco/perlite. Since the transition pots are compact, and you should never let them become overly dry, the quantity of water required for each watering event is minimal. Initially, begin with daily watering, but as you progress to the third or fourth day of feeding, you can increase the frequency to twice daily.

Watering new plants
.

Addressing Calcium Deficiency in Growing Cannabis Clones

During the clone transition stage, a delicate equilibrium exists between the calcium requirements of the coco coir and the clone’s limited tolerance for high Electrical Conductivity (EC). Even with thorough preparation, you may encounter issues related to calcium or magnesium deficiency while nurturing clones in coco coir. Properly buffering your coco coir is an essential step to ensure a smooth clone transition stage. I recommend referring to our tutorial titled “How to Prepare and Buffer Coco Coir” for detailed guidance on this process. When the coco coir is adequately buffered, these problems can be effectively managed and will naturally diminish as soon as you transition to feeding with full-strength solution.

Calcium Deficiency: A Common Challenge

Among the potential issues you may come across, calcium deficiency stands out as the most frequent concern. The initial indicator of calcium deficiency is a subtle twisting of the leaves, sometimes resulting in a wavy appearance along the leaf edges. This symptom is often observed on the leaves of clone at the first two nodes. As the condition advances, brown spots may begin to develop on the leaves.

Deficiency of certain nutrients

Treating CalMag Problems Step 1: CalMag Foliar

As soon as you see the first indications of clone calcium deficiency begin treating them twice daily with a CalMag foliar spray. Plants can absorb calcium through their leaves and in this way the plant can get it without having to compete with the coco for it. As a foliar application, the clones can handle a full-strength dose of CalMag. That is 5ml of General Hydroponics Calimagic per gallon. However, you can mix a smaller batch, just add enough CalMag so that the EC is 800. pH should be above 6.2. Adding a wetting agent to the foliar solution is optional. It is best to use a pressure sprayer to apply the foliar as this will deliver a fine mist, however, you could use any spray bottle. Continue the foliar treatment until the clones are on the full-strength blend.

Treating CalMag Problems Step 2: Substitute CalMag Water at Target EC

If symptoms persist and worsen despite the foliar treatment, it’s advisable to replace the regular nutrient solution with CalMag water as needed. Depending on the severity, this substitution can be done at intervals of up to every other feeding. This approach serves to meet the coco coir’s calcium requirements but may slightly compromise the plant’s access to other nutrients. It’s crucial to ensure that the CalMag water matches the same EC level as the water it’s replacing.

When confronted with calcium deficiencies during the clone stage, it’s vital to assess the quality of the coco coir and the effectiveness of your buffer before proceeding with transplantation. With proper preparation and buffering of the coco coir for the subsequent transplant, ongoing issues can be averted, allowing for a return to standard management practices. I encourage you to consult our article titled “The Importance of using CalMag in Coco” for more insights.

What a healthy cannabis plant should look like.

Next Steps

When your small plants reach the stage of having new nodes, they have transitioned beyond the clone transition phase and can now be classified as young plants. Typically, they will be prepared for transplantation from their transition pots to their next growing environment. If all progresses smoothly, you should reach this stage approximately7 to 10 days after transplanting them into the transition pots. However, it’s important to exercise patience with your young clones, as the timeline may vary, and it’s essential to observe and respond to their specific needs.

To handle the next stages of your grow like a pro, be sure to see our article/tutorials, The Importance of Transplanting Cannabis Plants” and “Cannabis Plant Training & Care”.

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